Thursday, May 12, 2011

Thailand: 12 Days Central Backpacking Itinerary Sampler

This is a preview of my imminent trip to Thailand. Thorough research was done as usual before any trip, I intended to post a detail list of places and things I want to do but figured that I would have changed it anytime during the trip if I don't like them.

So, keeping it simpler, this post was intended to help anyone who wants to travel to Thailand as a kick start information gathering blog, and hopefully it would help you in any way it could.
 
Introduction

The sampler is a rather robust and mixed trip that includes some of the most experiential cultural explorations, quiet exotic rural villages set towards the northwest border of Thailand, and vibrant busy Bangkok city schedule, yet not forgetting a little moment at the famous Thailand must-go beaches.

Suggest trip length

The suggested trip length for this itinerary is twelve days in exact, though anything more than that is far more comfortable. If you have lesser than ten days, you may skip one of the trip out of the city (east, west or north in its category) to make yourself more comfortably settling into your pace.

Sample plan

Day 1 - Arrival in Bangkok
Day 2 - Bangkok
Day 3 - Bangkok > Kanchanaburi (2.45 hours)
Day 4 - Kanchanaburi > Sangkhlaburi (5 hours)
Day 5 - Sangkhlaburi
Day 6 - Sangkhlaburi > Bangkok (7.45 hours)
Day 7 - Bangkok > Ayutthaya (2 hours)
Day 8 - Ayutthaya > Lopburi (1.45 hours), Lopburi > Aytthaya (1.45 hours)
Day 9 - Ayutthaya > Bangkok (1.45 hours) > Ban Phe (3 hours) > Trat (3 hours) > Koh Chang (1 hour)
Day 10 - Koh Chang (Khlong Prao)
Day 11 - Koh Chang (Khlong Prao) > Bangkok (10 hours)
Day 12 - Departure from Bangkok

Main Attractions

Bangkok for the good and bad =)

Bangkok city

Kanchanaburi for lives on the river and death railway.
Kanchaburi

Sanglhaburi for exotic rural village, trekking and elephant riding.

Sanglhaburi
Ayatthaya for the cultural structures and monuments.

Ayutthaya
Lopburi for monkey temples.

Lopburi
Koh Ching for the beaches and The Sun, and sands, and water sports. I could enjoy some Sun tanning and quiet moments.

Koh Chang

Sunday, April 24, 2011

Exploring Hanoi Old Quarter Streets & Halong Bay Excursion

As soon as you step into Hanoi Old Quarter, you would notice that everything is centered around the old town.

One of the most beautiful colonial cities, very lively, comprising nearly 40 streets packed with shops selling all kinds of goods, often becomes the start or the end of the traveling point in Vietnam.

It's considerably quieter than Ho Chin Minh, yet retaining its vibrant atmosphere in an antique quarter. I felt exceptionally excited because this was my first solo backpack trip and first couch surfing experience.

The buildings were greatly preserved & vibrant, some were face lifted 
Modern & antique

The people were generally nice and approachable, those who weren't English literate might shy away if you ask for help, I was sure it's easy to get help.

The total Hanoi population was around 6 million according to the tour guide on the bus to Halong Bay, and Wikipedia said so too.

It was also believed that the total number of motor bikes hit nearly 4 million units in Hanoi alone, air pollution was at its highest rate, red alert!

Local seller

One of the commonly seen activities was the local sellers roaming around the town on foot or bike carrying goods with them to sell to the locals & travelers, there were fruits, shirts, pants, sandals & etc.

I would recommend anyone to take your time to walk the town, explore the beauty of the busy streets yourself at your own pace. Plus, a little research of the historical background of the streets and houses would absolutely help lifting your overall experience to the fullest in the Old Quarter.

Chinese chess lovers on the street

Although many of the streets no longer sell the products after which they were name, some still do. There's a list of the street names & its descriptions.

Today, the Old Quarter has become the unique classical feature of Hanoi, and one of the desired tourist destinations in Hanoi. I was in love with this little antique yet vibrant city very much, it's full of life!

Local selling carrying goods walking down the street

If you are a lazy, and with little time to spare, the cyclo/trishaw is an alternative to explore the town at ease, $1 per ride for 15-30min.

Typical passageway that links to houses at the back

Quiet alley
Tien on Call

Tien was my personal motorbike driver, recommended by Dr. Tuyet, he was a reliable person that anyone could count on. He helped me to negotiate prices on goods, taught me some useful Vietnamese language, very handy at times.

He’s so cute, we had real good time hanging out together at restaurants and bars, trying to guess what the other said because he spoke limited English, so we occasionally ought to draw on paper just to to be sure we were communicating correctly.

Tien, my next best Vietnamese friend

I promised him more businesses for him, if you are going to Hanoi & need a ride, please call him at +84 0978221346, he should be able to help you ordering food (cheaper than you order yourself), teach you some useful local words, most importantly roam around the town with his motorbike for a relatively cheap rate, only $8-12, 5-8 hours. Please tip him!

We hanged out at Puku earlier on my first day, a Cafe Pub with WiFi, here I finally felt I was connecting back to the world with my friends & family. Posted a few tweets and photos on Facebook then chilled with Tien, it's beer time! Heinneken 30,000 VND or RM7!

Puku, cafe & bar with wifi
Cozy little cafe
This shaky image was taken with the help from Tien while we were chilling at the cafe in the evening

You should tell him when to come back to pick you up from where he left you if you wish to stay on longer to spend time at a place. He's a very handy assistant, he helped me to buy my train tickets to Sapa while I spent my own time walking down the street at Hoan Kiem Lake, the legendary turtle lake.

Halong Bay Excursion

"Halong Bay" is literally translated as "bay of the descending dragons". Most people come to Halong Bay on a tour.

For about USD50 you can get a standard two nights stay of backpacker accommodation, and the prices varied depending on the type of quality you are getting, the junk, the food, the bed.

I woke up in the morning on my second day and Tien was there to take me to the travel agency to catch the bus with other travelers for the famous Halong Bay excursion.

Halong Bay is situated 170km east to Hanoi, traveling by minibus not more than 4 hours, and they stopped once at the souvenir center so we could use a break.

The idea is a few days of cruising around Halong Bay, one of the most magnificent natural splendours of Asia. The best way to appreciate Halong Bay is by boat or junk whatever you name it.

Few could fail to be impressed with Halong Bay, with over 2,000 limestone islands jutting out of the green waters.

IndoChina junk at Halong Bay
Halong Bay, the splendors of Asia

It was easy to book Halong Bay package, the agencies were everywhere. The fee for me was $40/pax for one night, $60 for two nights, shared room with or without air conditioning, inclusive of two lunches, dinner, breakfast and transportation. The package also included a stop for visiting Hang Song Sut cave.

Indulging Asian food

Soon after boarding the junk, lunch was served, they could even cater for vegetarian and non-seafood lover. The tour guide would request you to inform them earlier on the journey to Halong Bay so they could make the special arrangement for you.

Crap shell

Crispy spring roll

Steam lala

Crispy fried chicken

Steam fish

Friend tofu

The drinks on boat were ordered and paid separately, wasn’t sure how much was a can of Coke or Pepsi, but a can of Tiger beer was fairly cheap at 30,000 VND, less than RM7. Beers were simply irresistible!

The view from the upper deck on the junk was sensational, weather was fantastic, we had the Sun sticking out and was around 23 degrees.

The blue sky
The clusters lime stones at Halong Bay

Dock at Hang Sung Sot cave

The day was usually getting darker around 5pm, and it should be completely dark by 6.30pm.

The soft soothing wind, the sound of the waters flapping over the boat. The junk’s engine should have stopped by now, having my own sweetest moment at the top of the deck all by myself before dinner, the mind was exceptionally calm & relaxed…

The light in the dark would guide us through the storm

The night with laughters and beers

The night was exceptionally quiet, I was able to listen to the music being played from the junk rested about 100 meters away. They played some oldies..

Then dinner was served.

Steamed sweet shrimp

French fries

Cucumber

Fried tofu

Crunchy fried potatoes

Fried chicken slice

I met some of the most fascinating individuals from all around the world with plenty of backpacking experience, they were unbelievable!

The newly wed lovely Israeli, traveling for couple of weeks for honey moon
Every Israeli man or women has to take part in servicing the military. The men would serve up to minimum 3 years after high school, and the women 2 years.

French mid wives, entering 4th week of their 6 weeks Asian trip, they would work and travel at any part of the world

The night usually ended with laughters and beers, every individual I came across they must have some exciting stories to tell, some talked about their trip, or homeland, or people they had met along the way, or their dogs and cats.

The clear night sky was the greatest thing we had on that night, relaxing under the shining stars.

The next day I exchanged contacts with some of my new friends, left group after breakfast and went on to another junk with a Switzerland uncle as the rest would spend another night at Cat Ba Island which I didn’t sign up for.

We spent an hour kayaking around the limestone islands, watch out for the big boats around you, make sure you don’t get in their ways and run down by them.

Returning to the jetty at noon was also enjoyable, I took pleasure of relaxing on the deck, the Sun and the gentle breeze were my friends. We then headed for a fine lunch before the bus took us on 3 hours drive back to Hanoi.

Viet house restaurant

Lunch before leaving Halong

Crispy spring roll

Sweet orange soup

Golden fried shrimp

My incredible experience in Halong Bay excursion ended here.

Halong Bay outfit!

Friday, March 25, 2011

My First Couch Surfing Experience in Hanoi

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I recalled it was one of the most anticipating year end short get away trip that I eagerly awaited.

This was also my first solo backpacking trip couple of years back, decisions during travel was always easy to make though not all were perfect like deciding to avoid the desperate taxi drivers and to walk 30 minutes to Hanoi Old Town from the train station 5am in the morning with the weather well below 20 degrees wasn't really pleasant. But that's what made the experience so exciting!

It was a nine days trip Hanoi trip, research on budget hotels and packages to Halong Bay and Sapa trekking were all done before hand, and booked locally when I was there.

The legendary Turtle Lake, where the keeper of the sword is a Giant Turtle at Hoan Kiem Lake. This was where I took time leisurely walk around

How it felt to be first timer?

It was a little nervous at first, about everything, you know, like not able to book things in advance, not able to go according to plan, decisions were so impromptu and last minute changes were normal no matter how much planning I had. Unlike any other trip I had before, it was absolutely the sweetest experience ever!

The budget hotel rates range between $8-15, the better appearance from the look the more expensive it is, and always easy to get a budgeted hotel in Old Town near Hoan Kiem Lake. Be sure to check the room condition before you commit.

I had to stay at Dr. Tuyet’s, the arrangement with Dr. Tuyet was quite last minute as my other Couch Surfer, Fred said she couldn’t host me on the first night at the very last minute before I left for Vietnam. Unexpected things just happened, that's quite normal.

Dr. Tuyet, my sweet host during my backpacking trip in Hanoi. She loved the roti canai I brought from Malaysia.

What is Couch Surfing?

CouchSurfing is a hospitality exchange online network and the renowned website is supported by an enormous 2.6million members from 245 countries and territories, where travel enthusiasts can choose to host guests or being hosted when they visit specific countries or places.



The arrangement between the host and guest is solely based on merit, and early arrangement. To date, there are 3million successful host and surf, and operating just relying on donation from its advocates.

CouchSurfing's mission is quite inspiring quoted as:
"At CouchSurfing International, we envision a world where everyone can explore and create meaningful connections with the people and places they encounter. Building meaningful connections across cultures enables us to respond to diversity with curiosity, appreciation and respect. The appreciation of diversity spreads tolerance and creates a global community."
There were a few considerations before I made my embarkment to Hanoi to stay with my host, these are usually the considerations from both parties such as the background, spoken language, condition of resting area, preferred gender, distance from tourist hotspot, pets, smoking.

Another consideration for me was the status of the host, whether they were parents with kids or students or working adult like me. Mostly parents would apply stricter rules for such I had to get home by 11pm staying with Dr. Tuyet where some would pass you the key so you won't need them if you come home late.

You might have more flexibility on arrangement with younger adults as some might stay up late, but my advise is to get home earlier, try to be considerate to repay the host's generosity of the free hospitality.

The Couch surf experience was rather unique, my hosts were generally very kind and helpful with a lot of insights about Hanoi and trip recommendation.

Make sure you do what I did, I brought roti canai and durian kuih for my host as token of appreciation. It's the greatest way of showing gratitude to your host by giving some food, snacks, or other souvenirs that symbolize our country. It's not necessary to be expensive items.

Dr. Tuyet is a half retired psychologist, a Vietnamese who's married to an ex-US diplomat, having two children who now live in the States. She spent 2 hours rescheduling my itinerary, cooked me breakfast she didn't have to, I couldn't have asked for more from her!

We had great time exchanging our stories from our own cultures and countries.

The weather was just nice, it was probably around 23 degrees with the Sun poking in and out in the cloudy sky.

Taking the cab from Hanoi International Airport to town was easy, with standard rate of $15. Look around and you will likely to find some Europeans to share the ride to town like I did.

Dr. Tuyet's apartment

Dr. Tuyet's apartment was situated at Kim Ma Street, the streets were getting busier as I passed the Old Town. It was an overwhelming experience to walk the busy streets, I wasn't surprised by my travel book's recommendation to readers to sit down at the restaurant, downing a beer and watching the world goes by... It's simply magnificent!

Oranges @ Hanoi old quarter street

Tien, my motorbike driver took us off for one of the famous local food in Hanoi, Bun Cha. The experience on the bike roaming in the busy Old Town streets wasn’t particularly comfortable with the excessive motorbikes and didn't help by the confusing traffic system.

Tien, my trusted driver

I was quite uneasy at first, but had quickly adjusted to the mind blowing traffic condition in Hanoi, anyone would be easily blown away to see how the locals mobilized around the town at such rate, they probably had developed their own traffic system.

The bikes would avoid and go around me when I crossed the street, like ants surrounding me.

But don’t get fooled, watch where you are heading and always pay 110% attention to the situation on the road, especially when you travel a lot on foot.